Treat Yourself To A Taste Of Tulbagh!

The quaint and charming town of Tulbagh in the Western Cape holds many special memories for my family and I. It’s probably the area that we visit the most when we go on weekend getaways. Sometimes it’s the three of us and other times it’s just hubby and I. So why Tulbagh? The majestic mountains, spectacular scenery, award-winning wines, delicious traditional local cuisine, excellent accommodation options and an array of activities and experiences make Tulbagh the perfect long weekend getaway from the city. And if you just want to chill with a glass or two of wine and take in the beautiful views, that’s fine too.

The September school holidays saw our son going on a road trip adventure WITHOUT us! What were we going to do without our darling son for 10 days??? Oooh, I know! Go on a little road trip of our own 🙂 Have you guessed where yet? 😉 We’ve been fortunate to stay in a number of lovely places near Tulbagh, so this time we chose to stay in the town itself. And where better than at The Tulbagh, a Boutique Heritage Hotel dating back to 1809.

We arrived on an unusually hot Spring afternoon (think upper 30 degree temps) and were warmly welcomed by Monia, who just exudes pure happiness and genuine country hospitality. Born and raised in Tulbagh, she has worked at The Tulbagh for many years and her passion and dedication shines through. The main hotel building dates back to 1859 and offers a variety of contemporary-styled luxury rooms. We were shown to our Suite for our two night stay and when I saw where it was located, I was thrilled.

The Freesia Suite, located in the Heritage annex of the Winterhoek Manor (1813) is exquisitely decorated and comes complete with an extra length king size four poster bed (perfect for tall people like us!), the finest cotton linen, chandeliers, traditional yellow wood floors and beamed ceilings.

Along with air-conditioning, luxurious showers and amenities, flat screen TVs and free Wi-Fi; I was in heaven and could tell we were going to have a very enjoyable and comfortable stay. The few things I feel they could add to the Suite are slippers, air-freshener and luggage stands – it’s the little things in life that make a difference.

This annex, along with the Toll House (1809) is opposite the main hotel building. I love the fact that you can stroll out into beautiful indigenous gardens with pools and have direct access onto historic Church Street.

I had my eye on one of the swimming pools as it was so hot, but first … lunch! Even though the hotel restaurant was closed for business that day due to floor renovations, Monia assured us that the kitchen staff would prepare anything for us from the menu. How’s that for great service?

A word of “caution” – be sure to arrive hungry when dining at the lovely Olive Terrace Bistro & Lounge Bar. It’s easy to see why Tripadvisor has rated the restaurant as number one in Tulbagh for three consecutive years. The a la carte menu offers a feast of tasty dishes and truly celebrates South African flavours, using locally-sourced seasonal fruits and vegetables. You will be spoilt for choice! They firmly believe in quality AND quantity, which we would soon find out for ourselves.

As we were in no hurry, I ordered a bottle of Saronsberg Shiraz Rose, the perfect pink drink to sip on a hot day. We chatted away and watched the town pass by from beneath the White Karee tree on the terrace.

It’s the perfect place for a spot of al fresco dining! There is also a tranquil and secluded courtyard for dining, as well as the period dining room with large fireplaces for those chilly winter evenings.

I dived right into the most delicious Springbok Carpaccio with pear, goats cheese and fresh rocket. I enjoyed every last morsel! Hubby had his usual Rump steak and chips and pretty much devoured it.

I opted for another starter of Salt and Pepper Crumbed Squid but the taste fell a bit flat for me, especially after the incredible Carpaccio I’d had. We headed back to our Suite to get ready for some poolside relaxation. I’m sure that most of you, especially parents, don’t get to do this as often as you’d like to, so we took full advantage of the hot, summery weather. Book + cocktail + pool = bliss!

There are three inviting pool areas dotted around the hotel’s property and each one is set in tranquil and colourful gardens with flowing fountains. I asked Monia what the hotel’s policy is regarding water usage as there is a severe drought. They are committed to responsible tourism and are proactive in limiting their impact on the environment. The hot water is provided by solar water heaters, all lighting is by LED and they utilize grey water for irrigating the gardens and recycle their waste. They also inform guests upon check-in of the water crisis and there is information in each room advising them how they can help save water.

The sun disappeared shortly after my dip in the cool pool, so we walked the ten steps (OK, maybe twenty!) to our Suite to relax and get ready for dinner. I must tell you, we were still full from our lunch but knew we wouldn’t be able to resist having dinner later that evening. A fairly new addition to the hotel, the modern Karee Wine & Tapas Bar, is an uber-cool space that offers local draught beers, craft gin cocktails and a wide selection of local wines.

Choose from a South African influenced tapas menu (check the chalkboard for daily specials) and heavenly gourmet pizzas from the wood-fired oven. Since the in-house restaurant of the Olive Terrace was still closed for renovations, the tapas bar was already buzzing with happy and relaxed people when we arrived. I could tell it was a favourite watering hole for locals and visitors alike.

Remember when I said that I was still full from lunch? Well, that didn’t stop me from ordering the Roast Pork Belly with creamy mash, seasonal veggies and of course, the piece de resistance, crispy crackling! I’m a sucker for pork belly and usually have it if it’s on the menu. The entire dish was utterly divine! As for the crispy crackling? It was perfectly crackly!

Hubby surprised me by having the Salmon Fishcakes. He really was still full from lunch so opted for something lighter. They were coated in a delicious-looking golden crumb (they tasted so yum and I should know – I traded some crackling for a bite of the fishcake!) and were topped with two poached eggs, a preserved lemon mayo and a fresh side salad. Ten out of ten for both dishes! After eating like kings that day, we could not fit another morsel in, so we called it a night. The next day was going to be a busy one and we needed our beauty sleep!

The sweltering heat from the previous day had turned into a rather blustery and cooler one the following morning. And I felt a head cold starting … ugh! But I wasn’t going to let that get me down and stop us from exploring the picturesque Tulbagh Valley. What’s the best way to start the day? With a deliciously tasty breakfast of course! Eggs Royale aka as Eggs Benedict were calling my name.

Their take on it is slightly different as the two poached free-range farm eggs are served on sweetcorn and pumpkin fritters with rocket and smoked salmon trout topped with hollandaise sauce. The entire dish was fresh, incredibly tasty and the fritters made such a nice change from the usual English muffin PS. I’m not a fan of those at all. And did I mention how filling it is too? Hubby and I could have easily shared the meal.

We set off on a leisurely country drive past pretty vineyards and guest farms towards the majestic Obiqua Mountains. First stop on the day’s itinerary was Oakhurst Olives on the Lemoendrif Farm. I must be honest – olives and I don’t have a very good relationship at all. I’ve tried many over the years, but each time I’ve found them to be incredibly salty. However, I’m always willing to try them just in case I find one that I actually like.

The farm may be a bit off the beaten path but it is well worth the drive for the views alone. We were greeted by an idyllic country scene of horses grazing lazily in a paddock on one side, with the Tasting Centre and acres and acres of Kalamata olive trees on the other side. Just gorgeous!

The Tasting Centre itself is light, bright, modern and airy with a grand baby piano in the one corner and unusual artwork adorning the brick walls. Jolene, the friendly Tasting Centre Ambassador, guided us through the olive and olive oil tasting.

The Du Toit family produces multi-award winning extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), Kalamata table olives and natural green olives in harmony with Mother Nature. They bought the farm in 2002 and produced their first EVOO in 2012. The farm itself has a whopping 33 400 olive trees with 15 varieties of olives.

Our first tasting was the Oakhurst Delicate EVOO which has a strong grass flavour. The trick to truly tasting the flavours is to warm up the olive oil in the tasting glass by covering it with your hand while twisting the glass for about 30 seconds. Then you take a sip and keep the EVOO on your palate for a short while to savour the unique flavour.

In this case, a strong grass flavour came through, along with some sweetness and bitterness. Overall, it is well balanced and won Best in Class and a gold Medal at the 2014 New York International Olive Oil Competition. It is ideal for salads, seafood, milder flavoured dishes and simply delicious drizzled on bread.

Next up was the Oakhurst Intense EVOO. I could taste ripe aromatic fruits along with strong notes of pepper. This versatile EVOO is ideal for cooking and stronger flavoured dishes. My personal preference? Definitely the Delicate, which I promptly bought along with a jar of Kalamata olives. Make sure you book a tasting during the busy summer months or you may have to wait awhile.

I think that no visit to the Tulbagh Valley is complete without a visit to a wine estate or two (or three even!). Saronsberg Cellar was included as part of our Tour of Tulbagh Package, and I couldn’t be more delighted! We’d been there before but not for quite a while, so I was looking forward to being back at the home of Shiraz. Driving past vineyards on both sides, the Lady of the Lake statue greets you as you pass by.

If you’ve been to Saronsberg before, then you’ll know that the stunning mountain views are just breathtaking. The lush outdoor area is perfect for sipping wine and nibbling on a cheese platter on a calm spring or summer’s day. Luciana, one of the Tasting Room Ambassadors, greeted us with a warm and friendly smile. She was knowledgeable and passionate about Saronsberg wines and the estate’s history.

Since it was a windy day, we sat inside the contemporary tasting room and started with the sublime Saronsberg MCC Brut 2015. It’s crisp with an elegant, dry finish and totally delicious! This was followed by one of my fave Rose wines, the rose petal coloured Saronsberg Shiraz Rose – fruity and well-balanced with a fresh finish. I should know. I quaffed a bottle the day before! On to the reds! The Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz 2015 is full-bodied with a silky finish and juicy red berry and black fruit flavours.

I found the Saronsberg Seismic Rooi 2014 to be an interesting combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It’s a full-bodied, well-balanced wine with an elegant finish.

Last, but certainly not least, their flagship wine since 2004, the Saronsberg Shiraz 2015. This was my absolute fave among the reds and not surprising since it made the Top 10 Shiraz in 2017. Be sure to pop upstairs to the Art Gallery to check out some unique and unusual paintings and sculptures. I’d highly recommend a visit to Saronsberg Cellar.

By now, we were a bit peckish (or at least I was), so we headed back to the Karee Wine & Tapas Bar for a quick snack before our walking tour of historic Church Street. Prior to the tour, we were shown to the viewing platform on the second floor above The Cape Dutch Quarters Reception and Travellers Lodge. The unique 360 degree view of the village, valley and mountains in the distance is simply spectacular so add this to your list of must do’s in Tulbagh.

Now this isn’t just any old walking tour. Meet charismatic Jayson Clark, owner of the Cape Dutch Quarters that offers a unique portfolio of listed heritage properties, as well as several other lovely properties around the Tulbagh Valley. He also happens to be the local historian and an incredibly passionate heritage activist. Travel through time while you enjoy a fascinating 90 minute tour of historic Church Street.

Be enthralled with tales of Tulbagh as an outpost of the Cape Colony while exploring some of the interiors of Tulbagh’s heritage buildings (some charming, some downright eerie!) and the 19th century visual elements of the street. The story continues through the age of pioneers and colonists as well as the development of the Cape vernacular architectural style.

Learn more about the devastating 1969 earthquake and the painstaking restoration of the 32 National Monuments and in the street. Church Street is one long open air museum that can be enjoyed at any time.

There are information boards outside each Heritage Building but a walking tour is the way to go to get a real sense of Tulbagh’s interesting past and life in the valley today.

Jayson proudly showed off his labour of love, The Kitchen Gardens, which were designed by renowned gardener Bridget Kipley. The gardens have become an additional tourist attraction and are open to visitors seven days a week. Not only do they offer an educational benefit, but they also grow around 40 types of fruit, vegetable and herbs that supply both Tulbagh residents and local restaurants. That’s why the food tastes so incredibly yum at most places in and around Tulbagh as it’s sourced locally and super fresh from the garden. It’s a wonderful initiative that benefits the local community. You can also order seasonal produce in the garden or at Cape Dutch Quarters’ reception.

All too soon, it was time to say thank Jayson for his charming hospitality and say farewell. If you love history and want to find out more about Tulbagh, it’s people, heritage and charming buildings, then book a walking tour with Jayson. There is so much to learn about this charming town and it’s rich past.

By now, it was really windy and getting colder by the minute so we stopped by our Suite to get ready for dinner. I know what you’re thinking – these people are eating AGAIN? Well, it was close to dinner time and our Tour of Tulbagh package included our meals at the Olive Terrace. However, there are many other fabulous restaurants and cafes in Tulbagh to indulge your inner foodie.

The period restaurant floor renovations were complete so we entered the cosy interior, greeted warmly by our waitron and three fireplaces that were crackling away. Soon upon our arrival at The Tulbagh on Monday, we noticed how friendly and helpful all the staff are. That’s quite rare these days. Word had spread that the restaurant was open once again and it was soon full of happy, hungry diners.

I’d seen quite a few delectable thin-base pizzas passing by so I knew that’s what I was going to order. After having major food envy the night before, hubby chose the Roast Pork Belly. Do yourself a favour and order this dish when you find yourself at The Tulbagh. Your tastebuds and tummy will thank you! As for my Bacon, Feta and Avocado pizza, it was scrumptious and cooked to perfection in their wood-fired oven.

We awoke to the beautiful sound of rain pitter-pattering against our window. Such bliss to be warm and cosy in bed watching and listening to the falling rain.

Unfortunately, the head cold had steadily become worse and I was really upset that I had to cancel our trip to Ceres to go zip lining with Ceres Zip Slide Tours. This was going to be the highlight of our trip because despite being a bit anxious about zip lining (I’m not an adrenaline junkie at all), I was keen to conquer whatever fears I may have. This will definitely be on our list for next time.

After another incredibly tasty breakfast, Monia kindly showed me around the hotel. The décor is an eclectic combination of old world meets new world, but it just works. The en-suite rooms are all beautifully furnished and some have their own little balconies with stunning views over the Tulbagh Valley.

I could wax lyrical about the gem that is the Tulbagh Valley, the genuine country hospitality, the delicious food and award-winning wines, along with our incredible stay at the stunning The Tulbagh. Of course, the best way to find out about the wonders of the Tulbagh Valley is to experience it for yourself.

Whether you prefer a relaxing stay and want to spend your time wining and dining or are looking for something a little more active and adrenaline-fueled, you’ll find the perfect package on their website (valid until 31 December 2017) So book your stay today! And as always, I’d love to hear about your experience -remember to include some photos too. I’m already planning our next trip to Tulbagh 😉